Garment and process of cutting and sewing clothes



y 9, 1959 mm TOMII 2,886,821

GARMENT AND PROCESS OF CUTTING AND SEWING CLOTHES Filed May 10, 1955 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 Fl .2 FIG.| G

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May 19, 1959 GARMENT AND PROCESS OF CUTTING AND SEWING CLOTHES Filed May 10, 1955 2 Sheets-Sher. 2

RYYO TOMII 2,886,821

United States Patent GARMENT AND PROCESS OF CUTTING AND SEWING CLOTHES Ryo Tomii, Otaru-shi, Hokkaido, Japan Application May 10, 1955, Serial No. 507,388 Claims priority, application Japan May 12, 1954 2 Claims. (Cl. 2-93) This invention relates to a process of cutting and sewing clothes with tight sleeves, such as business suits, workmens coats, rain-coats, white-shirts and so forth.

An object of this invention is to produce comfortable clothes with tight sleeves such as to aiford the wearers the utmost ease in moving their arms up and down, and also to facilitate putting the clothes on and taking them off.

A further object of this invention is to produce improved clothes with tight sleeves cut in a manner suitable for mass production.

A still further object is to eifect an economy in the cloth used in making clothes.

Fig. 1 is a plan view of the fore part of a coat and its undersleeve cut in one piece.

Fig. 2 is a plan view of a top sleeve used with the piece of Fig. 1.

Fig. 3 is a plan view of a back part of a coat used with the piece of Fig. 1.

Fig. 4 is a plan view of an under-sleeve folded down upon the fore part of Fig. 1.

Fig. 5 is a plan view showing how to seam the upper part of the under-sleeve and the fore part.

Fig. 6 is a plan view showing how to seam the lower part of a top sleeve.

Fig. 7 is a plan view showing how to seam a back part and an undersleeve at the lower arm hole seam.

Fig. 8 is a front perspective view of the coat.

Fig. 9 is a rear perspective view of the coat.

Referring to the figures, the cloth of the under-sleeve 1 and the fore part 2 are cut as one piece. This undersleeve 1 is folded as shown in Fig. 4 and corresponds to a piece usually cut separately. The top sleeve 3 with a thumb-like projection 4 is seamed to the fore part 2, and is more particularly seamed to the fore part 2 up to the inside line of the thumb-like projection 4. The seaming line 5 (see Fig. 5) of the fore part 2 to the top sleeve 3 is conventional and most of the arcuate edge or seaming line 6 of the top sleeve 3 and the fore part 2 is conventional. At the bottom of the arm hole, the top sleeve 3 must be turned sideways and the inside line 7 of the thumb-like projection 4 is sewn to the lower part of the arm hole 5 as shown in Fig. 6. Part of the top sleeve 3 is sewn perpendicularly to the fore part, but somewhat horizontally at the lower part of the arm-hole, as a result of which the arm can be freely moved around at this lower part of the arm-hole as an axle. Consequently, the under-arm of the coat is not pulled up, and movement of the arm up and down is facilitated compared with the conventional sewing which has the defect of pulling up the under-aim of the coat, the whole arm-hole being sewn vert1cal1y. Moreover, though the arm hole line 5 of the fore part is curved and the top sleeve 3 is sewn to the 2,886,821 Patented May 19, 1959 arm-hole line, in the usual manner, the top sleeve 3 shown in Fig. 6 is folded down, whereby the thumb-like projection 4- of the top sleeve 3 pushes out the fore part 2 at the under-arm, and some play is thus permitted. Accordingly, a coat thus made fits its wearer very well. Furthermore, the top sleeve 1 and the forepart 2 are cut of one piece, and the former is merely folded down hori zontally, requiring no seam at the under-arm. This therefore forms a natural underarm folding line suitable to its wearer, and hence there is enough room at the armpits and it is very easy to push an arm through the arm hole while putting the coat on.

The above-mentioned refers to the method of seaming the forepart and the top sleeve, and this idea is also applied to the seaming together of the back part 8 and the under-sleeve 1. More precisely, as shown in Fig. 7, at the region where the under-sleeve 1 is joined to the back part 8, a curve 9 is cut and the extended part 10 is made to follow this curve. As shown in Fig. 7, the under-sleeve 1 is turned sideways and the extended part 10 is joined to the arm-hole ll of the back part. The other part of the arm-hole is joined perpendicularly. Thus, the underside of the arm-hole sewn to the back part 8 becomes level when the sleeve is put down. Consequently, by the horizontal seam of the top sleeve 3 and the fore part 2 and by this naturally folded line of the under-sleeve, a good horizontal angle is provided to enable the wearer to move his arms up and down. This angle affords a bagging, and occasions no inconvenience or trouble in any part when the arms of the wearer are moved up and down.

I claim:

1. A garment comprising a plurality of sections including a fore part defining a portion of an arm hole, an undersleeve integral with and included in said fore part at said arm hole portion, an extension integral with said undersleeve and extending oppositely thereof at the extreme of the arm hole defined by the fore part, a separate top sleeve part including a portion for being seamed to said undersleeve to form a sleeve, said top sleeve part further including an arcuate edge for being seamed, at a part of the arm hole portion, to said fore part and a thumb-like projection contiguous to said arcuate edge for being seamed, at an adjacent part of the arm hole portion and adjacent said undersleeve, to said fore part, and rear part defining the remainder of said arm hole for being seamed to said fore part and said top sleeve and to the extension of said undersleeve.

2. A method of preparing a sleeve comprising forming a part having an edge defining a part of an arm hole and a sleeve section extending integrally from the lower arm hole forming portion of the said part, forming a supplementary sleeve section including an edge correspnding in part to the said edge of the arm hole and in part defining the upper edge of a thumb-like projection, seaming the upper edge portion of the said projection and the remainder of said supplementary sleeve section edge to the arm hole edge and first twisting said supplementary sleeve section between the seaming operations for the said edge of the supplementary sleeve section and the said part.

References Cited in the file of this patent FOREIGN PATENTS 

